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Wave Forecast
The ocean wave forecast in Schmid College of Science, Chapman University is based on the latest version of the WAM model - ECMWF parallel version, cycle 33R1. It is a third generation wave model, which solves the wave transport equation explicitly without any assumptions on the shape of the wave spectrum. WAM is used today by a significant number of operational and research centers worldwide (ECMWF, UK Met Office, US Navy). In the version used a new advection scheme has been adopted providing a more uniform propagation in all directions
Model Characteristics
| Grid | Area covered | Resolution | Wind input | Bathymetry data |
| 1. North Pacific | 120E – 270E 5N – 65N |
Horizontal: 0.20 x 0.20 (degrees) Number of Freq: 25 Number of Ang: 24 Cut of Freq: 0.041 |
NCEP-GFS (3-hourly intervals) Res: 0.5 degrees |
NOAA - ETOPO2 (0.20 degrees) |
| 2. North East Pacific (zooming also to restricted areas: US West coast, South CA coast) |
180E – 270E 15N – 60N |
Horizontal: 0.10 x 0.10 (degrees) Number of Freq: 25 Number of Ang: 24 Cut of Freq: 0.041 |
NCEP-GFS and RAMS (3-hourly intervals) Res: 0.1 degrees |
NOAA - ETOPO2 (0.1 degrees) |
Main Model Products
- Full wave spectra at specific grid points
- Significant Wave Height & Direction
- Maximum Expected Wave Height
- Swell Height and Direction
- Wind driven Wave Height & Direction
- Mean & Peak Wave Period
- Wind Speed & Direction at sea level
Applications
- Sailing Activities
- Ship safety
- Early warning system for extreme sea state conditions utilizing ERS2 & JASON Satellite data
- Marine pollution, runoff, oil spill
- Tourist activities (local forecast)
- Wave energy production
- Transportation – optimal ship routing
- Monitoring climate change effects