Wave Forecast

The ocean wave forecast in Schmid College of Science, Chapman University is based on the latest version of the WAM model - ECMWF parallel version, cycle 33R1. It is a third generation wave model, which solves the wave transport equation explicitly without any assumptions on the shape of the wave spectrum. WAM is used today by a significant number of operational and research centers worldwide (ECMWF, UK Met Office, US Navy). In the version used a new advection scheme has been adopted providing a more uniform propagation in all directions

Model Characteristics

Grid Area covered Resolution Wind input Bathymetry data
1. North Pacific 120E – 270E
5N – 65N
Horizontal: 0.20 x 0.20 (degrees)
Number of Freq: 25
Number of Ang: 24
Cut of Freq: 0.041
(3-hourly intervals)
Res: 0.5 degrees
(0.20 degrees)
2. North East Pacific
(zooming also to restricted areas:
US West coast,
South CA coast)
180E – 270E
15N – 60N
Horizontal: 0.10 x 0.10 (degrees)
Number of Freq: 25
Number of Ang: 24
Cut of Freq: 0.041
(3-hourly intervals)
Res: 0.1 degrees
(0.1 degrees)

Main Model Products

  • Full wave spectra at specific grid points
  • Significant Wave Height & Direction
  • Maximum Expected Wave Height
  • Swell Height and Direction
  • Wind driven Wave Height & Direction
  • Mean & Peak Wave Period
  • Wind Speed & Direction at sea level


  • Sailing Activities
  • Ship safety
  • Early warning system for extreme sea state conditions utilizing ERS2 & JASON Satellite data
  • Marine pollution, runoff, oil spill
  • Tourist activities (local forecast)
  • Wave energy production
  • Transportation – optimal ship routing
  • Monitoring climate change effects